Battambang
Cambodia'S Second City For Decades, A Quiet French Colonial Town With A Riverfront, Shophouses And Art Deco Market, And A Countryside Of Temples, Caves And A Bamboo Train. The Phnom Sampeau Killing Caves And A Bat Cloud At Dusk Are The Sights. Relaxed, With Little To See After A Day Or Two · Battambang, Battambang
Battambang is Cambodia's second city in size only, though it feels like a large village, a calm river town about 290 km north-west of Phnom Penh. Its charm is the French colonial centre: faded shophouses along the Sangker river, a few mansions, and the yellow Art Deco Psar Nath market from the 1930s. The sights are spread through the countryside. The bamboo train, called the Norry, is now a short tourist-only line; the real railway network has gone, so treat it as a fun ride, not a journey. On Phnom Sampeau, the killing caves hold a memorial to Khmer Rouge victims, and at dusk millions of bats stream out of a cave. Wat Banan is a small hilltop temple of the 11th century. Nearby villages make rice paper, rice wine and fish paste. In the evening, Phare Ponleu Selpak, an arts school, stages a circus show. A day or two is enough. Phnom Penh is about 5 hours away by bus, Siem Reap about 3 hours by bus or a slow boat.
Battambang old town and riverside, about 290 km north-west of Phnom Penh, Battambang, Battambang, Cambodia
The old town streets and riverside are open and FREE at all hours, and the Psar Nath market trades from early morning to late afternoon, with most stalls CLOSED by dusk. Phnom Sampeau is open daily in daylight; the bat exodus starts around sunset, so plan to be at the cave mouth shortly before. Wat Banan is open in daylight and the monks' area is private. The bamboo train runs in daylight when enough riders turn up, and the line can be CLOSED in heavy rain. The Phare circus show runs on set evenings, not every night, and is CLOSED on other days, so confirm the schedule. Museums and shops often close for a long midday break. Confirm all times locally, since they change.