Boac and the Moriones

A Fortress Cathedral On A Hill, And A Holy Week Of Carved Masks Re Enacting The Story Of A Blind Centurion · Boac, Marinduque

FOR ONE WEEK A YEAR MARINDUQUE FILLS WITH MEN IN CARVED WOODEN MASKS AND ROMAN CENTURION COSTUME. THE MORIONES RE-ENACTS THE STORY OF LONGINUS - the half-blind soldier whose sight was restored by blood from the crucifixion, who converted, and who was hunted through the streets and beheaded for it. THE MASKS ARE CARVED LOCALLY FROM SOFT WOOD, each one different, and the chase runs through Boac, Mogpog and Gasan across Holy Week. BOAC ITSELF IS A SPANISH TOWN ON A RIVER with a CATHEDRAL BUILT AS A FORTRESS ON THE HIGH GROUND - thick walls, a defensible position, put there because Moro raiding parties came up this coast and the church was where the town hid. BE HONEST ABOUT THE REST: outside Holy Week Marinduque is very quiet, THE MORIONES HAS BECOME PART PERFORMANCE FOR CAMERAS, and the island has little else that draws visitors. Accommodation books out months ahead for Holy Week and the ferries run packed.

Boac, Marinduque, Boac, Marinduque, Philippines

MARINDUQUE IS REACHED BY FERRY FROM LUCENA IN QUEZON to Balanacan or Cawit, roughly THREE HOURS AND WEATHER-DEPENDENT, with a small airstrip that has very limited service. THERE IS NO GATE; the island is covered by jeepney, tricycle or hired van. BOAC CATHEDRAL is an active parish, open and free, on the hill above the town. THE MORIONES RUNS THROUGH HOLY WEEK, PEAKING ON GOOD FRIDAY AND EASTER SUNDAY with the pugutan - the beheading - and the island fills completely: ACCOMMODATION BOOKS OUT MONTHS AHEAD and the ferries are packed. OUTSIDE HOLY WEEK the island is very quiet and the masks are seen only in workshops and the small museum. MASK CARVERS welcome visitors and selling is the point. Carry cash; banking is thin.

Boac and the Moriones on Spottos · Explore more places on Spottos