Bujang Valley
The Oldest Recorded Civilisation In Peninsular Malaysia Hindu Buddhist Temple Bases From The Fourth Century, One Of Which A Developer Bulldozed In 2013 · Merbok, Kedah
LONG BEFORE MELAKA, BEFORE ISLAM REACHED THE PENINSULA, THERE WAS A HINDU-BUDDHIST PORT CITY AT THE FOOT OF GUNUNG JERAI. Bujang Valley holds the OLDEST RECORDED CIVILISATION IN PENINSULAR MALAYSIA - CANDI, temple bases in brick and stone, some dated to around THE FOURTH OR FIFTH CENTURY - together with iron-smelting sites, beads and Chinese and Indian trade goods that show this was a serious entrepot on the route between India and China. DOZENS OF SITES HAVE BEEN FOUND ACROSS THE VALLEY. AND IN 2013 A DEVELOPER DEMOLISHED CANDI NO. 11, one of the oldest of them, with a bulldozer - it caused a national outcry, it was not reversed, and it is the reason anyone outside Kedah has heard of the valley at all. WHAT YOU VISIT IS A MUSEUM AND A GROUP OF RECONSTRUCTED TEMPLE BASES. Go for what it means. Start at the museum, because without it the brick courses mean nothing, and check it is open first - it closes on some days and there is little else out here if it is not.
Lembah Bujang, Merbok, Kedah, Merbok, Kedah, Malaysia
THE LEMBAH BUJANG ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM AT MERBOK is about forty-five minutes from ALOR SETAR or an hour from PENANG, and a car is the practical way - there is little public transport. IT KEEPS DAYTIME HOURS, charges very little, and CLOSES ON SOME DAYS. THE RECONSTRUCTED CANDI STAND IN THE GROUNDS AND IN THE VALLEY AROUND and are free to walk among. MANY OF THE DOZENS OF RECORDED SITES ARE ON PRIVATE LAND, IN PLANTATION OR SIMPLY NOT MARKED - do not expect a trail. GUNUNG JERAI rises behind the valley and has its own road to a summit resort and viewpoint. THE MUSEUM IS THE ANCHOR and without it the stones make very little sense, so start there. It is hot and low-lying; mornings are better. Sudden heavy rain is routine.