Desert Castles (Qasr Amra and Qasr Kharana)

UNESCO World Heritage Site: Qusayr Amra (1985). The Umayyad Desert Castles Of The 8th Century, Including Qasr Amra With Frescoes Of Bathers, Hunters And The Zodiac, Qasr Kharana (A Two Storey Stone Building) And Qasr Azraq. A Day Trip By Car Or Tour From Amman. · Azraq, Zarqa

The Desert Castles are a loose circuit of Umayyad buildings from the 8th century scattered across the black basalt plains of eastern Jordan. Qasr Amra (Qusayr Amra), about 85 km east of Amman near Azraq, is a small bathhouse and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985. Its walls and domes hold the best-preserved Umayyad frescoes: a ruler's court, hunting scenes, wrestlers, female nudes and a zodiac dome. Qasr Kharana, about 60 km from Amman, is a two-storey fortress-like block of 60 rooms around a courtyard. Also on the circuit are Qasr Azraq, Qasr Mushatta, Qasr Tuba and Qasr Hallabat. The honest picture: these are small buildings in a vast, empty landscape, with few facilities. The paintings at Amra are the reason to go, so do not rush them. Plan for a full morning of driving between sites, carry water and snacks, and expect to be nearly alone. Qasr Amra is tiny, and a visit there can take as little as thirty minutes. There is little public transport, so you need a car, a driver or a tour.

Circuit of Umayyad desert palaces in the eastern desert east of Amman, reached by car along Highway 40 and the Azraq road, with Qasr Kharana and Qasr Amra closest to Amman, Azraq, Zarqa, Jordan

Most castles are open daily, usually from morning until late afternoon, with shorter days in winter. Qasr Amra and Qasr Kharana have a guardian on site. Qasr Mushatta lies in a military area and may be CLOSED. Qasr Tuba is remote and needs a 4WD. Check opening before you set out, as the drives are long.

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