Dharamshala

Seat Of The Dalai Lama And Of The Central Tibetan Administration In Exile Since 1960 · Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh

A hill town in the Kangra valley of Himachal Pradesh, and since 1960 the home of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government in exile, which is why it is called Little Lhasa. The part everyone means is McLeod Ganj, the upper town on a ridge at around 2,000 metres, a crowded strip of Tibetan monasteries, prayer flags, cafes and guesthouses under the snow peaks of the Dhauladhar range. The Tsuglagkhang complex holds the main temple and the Dalai Lama's residence, and when he gives public teachings they are open to anyone who registers. Tibetan culture is the reason most visitors come: the monasteries, the Norbulingka Institute of arts, Tibetan food, and courses in Buddhism, meditation and yoga. The town is also the start of the Triund trek, one of the most popular short hikes in the Himalaya, and has a Himalayan cricket stadium with one of the most scenic grounds in the world. The lower town is the Indian administrative town. The monsoon here is among the wettest in India, and the Dalai Lama's schedule decides the crowds.

Temple Road, McLeod Ganj, Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh, 176219, India

NO OPENING TIME HERE WAS CHECKED; confirm before planning. The usual pattern: the Tsuglagkhang complex opens early in the morning, around 5 am, and closes in the evening, around 8 pm, with the main temple hall sometimes closed at midday. The Tibet Museum is open roughly 9 am to 5 pm and has a weekly closed day, often Monday. Teachings follow the Dalai Lama's published schedule, with registration days beforehand. Hours shorten in winter. The traps: arriving for a teaching without registering, bringing a phone and bag to the security line, and starting Triund too late in the day.

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