Golfo di Orosei and the Gennargentu

National Park Of The Gulf Of Orosei And Gennargentu, Covering The Roadless Limestone Cliff Coast, The Supramonte Karst Plateau And The Gennargentu Massif · Dorgali, Sardinia

The one stretch of Sardinian coast that has no road along it. Forty kilometres of limestone cliff run from Cala Gonone south to Baunei with white pebble coves cut into the bottom of it, reached by boat, by a long walk down a gorge, or not at all. Cala Goloritze, with a hundred-metre rock spire standing off the beach, is the one on every Sardinian poster and is capped at a few hundred visitors a day. Behind the cliffs the Supramonte rises into karst: limestone plateau, the Gorropu gorge with walls five hundred metres high, caves, sinkholes and shepherds' country where the road network simply stops. Further inland again is the Gennargentu, the island's mountain core, which holds snow into spring. This is the emptiest part of Italy that anyone deliberately visits, and almost all of it needs either a boat or a serious walk. Cala Goloritze caps its daily numbers and charges to get in on foot, which is the one thing most likely to turn a visit away, so check it before setting out.

Viale Bue Marino, Dorgali, Sardinia, 08022, Italy

NO OPENING TIME HERE WAS CHECKED. The structure: the coast, the plateau and the inland tracks are open country with no hours. BOAT TRIPS ARE SEASONAL, running roughly Easter to October from Cala Gonone and Santa Maria Navarrese and cancelled in swell. Cala Goloritze's land route operates a daily cap and an access fee in season. The Grotta del Bue Marino runs guided visits by boat in season only. Most coastal trade closes from November to March. Confirm the boats and the Goloritze cap first.

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