Gulf of Morbihan

Inland Sea Of Some Forty Islands On The South Coast Of Brittany, With The Walled Town Of Vannes At Its Head; A Regional Nature Park · Vannes, Brittany

The Gulf of Morbihan is a small inland sea on the south coast of Brittany, joined to the Atlantic by a narrow mouth between Port-Navalo and Locmariaquer. Its name means little sea in Breton, and it holds some forty islands, most of them small and private, set among mudflats, oyster beds and salt marshes. Two islands are inhabited communes with regular ferries: the Île aux Moines, long and wooded, and the flatter Île d'Arz, both good for walking and cycling. At the head of the gulf stands Vannes, a walled town with ramparts, gardens, old wash-houses and streets of half-timbered houses. The tidal currents through the narrows are very strong, which matters for kayakers and swimmers. By boat you can visit the Gavrinis cairn, a megalithic tomb with carved stones. The area is a regional nature park and a wintering ground for birds. To be honest, it is a regional escape for sailing, islands and oysters rather than a major sight, and Carnac, which has its own row, is about half an hour away.

Vannes, Île aux Moines and Île d'Arz, Morbihan, Vannes, Brittany, France

The shores, the coastal footpath and the streets and ramparts of Vannes are public and open at all hours, though the ramparts gardens may close at night. Ferries to the Île aux Moines run all year from Port-Blanc near Baden, frequently in summer and less often in winter, and boats to the Île d'Arz leave from the Vannes side; check the current timetables. Cruise boats around the gulf from Vannes, Port-Navalo, Locmariaquer and other harbours mostly run from spring to autumn, often with stopovers on the islands, and their schedules depend on the tide. Visits to the Gavrinis cairn are by guided boat trip from Larmor-Baden on a seasonal timetable with limited places, so book ahead and confirm. The Vannes cathedral usually opens daily outside services, and the Vannes market is held on some mornings each week, busiest on Saturday. The Château de Suscinio on the Rhuys peninsula opens daily in the season with shorter winter hours. Oyster farms selling at the door keep their own hours. Summer weekends and holidays bring heavy traffic and full ferries, and midweek outside July and August is far calmer.

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