Huayna Potosi
One Of The Most Accessible 6,000 M Peaks In The World, First Climbed In 1919 And Reached By A 2 Or 3 Day Guided Climb From La Paz. The Glacier Route Needs Crampons, An Ice Axe And Acclimatisation; The Range Is The Cordillera Real. · La Paz, La Paz
Huayna Potosi is a glaciated peak of 6,088 m in the Cordillera Real, about 25 km north of La Paz, and one of the most accessible 6,000 m summits in the world. Most climbers go on a 2-day guided trip from La Paz: day 1 is a drive of about an hour to the base camp at 4,700 m, glacier training with crampons and an ice axe, and a 2 to 3 hour walk to the high camp at 5,130 m. Day 2 starts around midnight, roped to a guide, with 5 to 8 hours on the glacier to reach the summit at sunrise, then a descent to base camp and the city. The route is called non-technical, but it is steep in places, with crevasses and a narrow summit ridge. The honest picture is that 'easy 6,000 m' is a marketing line. Many climbers fail because of altitude, not skill, and the glacier has retreated; the Chacaltaya ski glacier nearby vanished in 2009. Acclimatise for several days in La Paz first, choose a certified guide, check the rented gear, and carry insurance that covers high-altitude rescue. Go in the dry season, May to September.
Glaciated peak of 6,088 m in the Cordillera Real about 25 km north of La Paz, climbed from the Huayna Potosi base camp at 4,700 m reached by road from the city, La Paz, La Paz, Bolivia
The mountain is open all year, but climbs run only with agencies and are best in the dry season, May to September. Climbs start from La Paz in the morning and the summit push begins near midnight. Base camp huts are CLOSED to walk-ins without a booking, and the road can be blocked by snow in the wet months, so confirm with the agency.