Humboldt Penguin National Reserve

A National Reserve Of Desert Islands Off The Coquimbo Coast Protecting The Main Breeding Colonies Of The Humboldt Penguin, Reached By Boat From The Fishing Village Of Punta De Choros · Punta de Choros, Coquimbo

The Humboldt Penguin National Reserve protects three bare, rocky islands off the desert coast of Coquimbo - Choros, Damas and Chanaral - which hold the largest breeding colonies of the Humboldt penguin, a threatened species found only along the coasts of Chile and Peru. Small boats leave from the fishing village of Punta de Choros, about two hours north of La Serena, and circle Isla Choros, where penguins stand on the ledges above the surf alongside sea lions, cormorants, boobies and pelicans. The waters are rich in plankton from the cold Humboldt Current, and a resident group of bottlenose dolphins often rides beside the boats; whales, including fin and humpback, are sometimes seen offshore. Boats then land on Isla Damas, whose white sand beaches and turquoise water look almost Caribbean, for a short walk. The ride can be rough and wet, visitor numbers are limited, and trips stop when the wind rises in the afternoon. The area has been at the centre of a long national debate over a proposed mining port nearby, a sign of how much it matters.

Caleta Punta de Choros, La Higuera, Coquimbo, Punta de Choros, Coquimbo, Chile

Boats leave Punta de Choros through the morning and early afternoon, when the sea allows, and are cancelled in strong wind or swell. Landing is allowed only on Isla Damas, for a limited time; Isla Choros is seen from the boat. Visitor numbers are capped, so arrive early in summer.

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