Itacaré

Surf Town On The Cocoa Coast Of Southern Bahia, Where Atlantic Forest Meets A String Of Small Beaches · Itacaré, Bahia

Itacaré is a small town on the Cocoa Coast of southern Bahia, where the Rio de Contas meets the Atlantic. For centuries it lived from fishing and from the cocoa farms of the surrounding hills, until a plant disease in the late 1980s ruined the cocoa economy and a paved coast road opened the area to visitors. It is now one of Brazil's best-known surf towns, with a relaxed, backpacker and hippie feel mixed with smart pousadas. The draw is the setting: a string of small beaches separated by forested headlands, some in town and others reached only by trails through the Atlantic forest. Tiririca is the main surf beach, Prainha is a classic trail walk, and further south Engenhoca, Havaizinho and Itacarezinho sit below the coast road. Inland there are waterfalls such as Tijuípe, rafting on the Rio de Contas and cocoa farms that now make fine chocolate. In the evening the town gathers on the Rua Pedro Longo, known as the Pituba, for bars and food. Most visitors arrive by road from Ilhéus airport.

Itacaré, BA, Itacaré, Bahia, Brazil

The town and its beaches are open all year and at all hours, but the rhythm depends on the season and the tides. The high season runs from Christmas to Carnival, with New Year's Eve and Carnival the most crowded and expensive weeks, and July brings a second, smaller rush of Brazilian school holidays and winter surf. From April to June the town is quieter, some pousadas and restaurants close for a break, and the rain is heaviest. Beach trails are best walked in daylight only, and several beaches reached through private land charge a small access or parking fee and close their gates in the late afternoon - confirm locally. Tijuípe and other waterfalls on private land keep daytime hours. Rafting and boat trips depend on river levels and weather and run on demand through local agencies. Cocoa farm visits are usually by booking, not walk-in. The Pituba street comes alive after dark, busiest from Thursday to Saturday and every night in summer. Low tide opens rock pools and some beach crossings, so check the tide table before walking between beaches.

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