Itaúnas
ItaúNas State Park, Created 1991; Dunes That Buried The Old Village Of ItaúNas; Home Of The National Forró Festival · Conceição da Barra, Espírito Santo
Itaúnas is a small village in the far north of Espírito Santo with a strange history and a famous soundtrack. In the mid-twentieth century, after the forest around it was cleared, wind-blown sand advanced over the original village of Itaúnas until it buried it entirely; residents rebuilt on the other side of the river, and the old church tower is said to lie under the dunes. Those dunes, some of them tens of metres high, now form the heart of Itaúnas State Park, created in 1991, which runs along a wild beach where sea turtles nest. The Itaúnas River winds behind them through mangroves and can be explored by canoe. The village is also the capital of forró pé-de-serra, the accordion-led dance music of the north-east: its bars play live forró every night in season, and the national forró festival in July draws dancers from across Brazil. Outside the festival and the summer holidays, Itaúnas is quiet, simple and a little hard to reach, which is much of its charm.
Vila de Itaúnas, Conceição da Barra, ES, Conceição da Barra, Espírito Santo, Brazil
The state park is open daily in daytime hours, with the visitor centre in the village, and its trails and the dunes are meant to be left before dark. The village itself runs on two clocks. In summer, roughly December to Carnival, and in July, forró bars open every night, but they start late and fill only well after eleven, going on until the early morning, so the village sleeps late and many restaurants open around midday. Out of season many bars, pousadas and restaurants close or open only at weekends, and a midweek visit in May or September can find the village almost shut - check which places are open before you travel. The national forró festival takes place in July, with dates that shift each year - confirm them and book months ahead, because the village fills completely. Canoe trips on the river run in daylight and are best in the morning. Turtle nesting areas on the beach are closed to lights and people at night in season.