Kaparkan Falls

Terraced Travertine Pools In The Cordillera That Only Exist In The Wet Season, Reached By Hours Of Four Wheel Drive · Tineg, Abra

KAPARKAN IS A STAIRCASE OF TRAVERTINE POOLS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF ABRA - mineral-laden water spilling over rimstone terraces it has built itself over centuries, pool into pool into pool, the colour turning from clear to milky blue depending on the light. IT LOOKS LIKE PAMUKKALE AND ALMOST NOBODY IN THE PHILIPPINES HAS HEARD OF IT. THE CATCH IS COMPLETE: IT ONLY EXISTS IN THE WET SEASON. Outside roughly AUGUST TO OCTOBER there is not enough water for the terraces to fill, and the site is closed - so the one window when it works is also the window when the mountain roads are at their worst. ACCESS IS THREE TO FOUR HOURS OF FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE from Tineg on a track that is genuinely rough, arranged through the local government, followed by a short walk. IT IS ONE OF THE MOST DIFFICULT DAY TRIPS IN LUZON AND ONE OF THE STRANGEST LANDSCAPES IN IT. Trips are arranged through the local government and cancelled outright after heavy rain.

Kaparkan Falls, Tineg, Abra, Cordillera, Tineg, Abra, Philippines

KAPARKAN IS IN TINEG, ABRA, reached from BANGUED - the provincial capital - which is itself a long road journey from Vigan, Laoag or Baguio. THE SITE IS SEASONAL AND IS OPEN ROUGHLY AUGUST TO OCTOBER ONLY, when there is enough water for the terraces to fill; OUTSIDE THAT WINDOW IT IS CLOSED and there is nothing to see. TRIPS ARE ARRANGED THROUGH THE LOCAL GOVERNMENT AND ACCREDITED OPERATORS, with REGISTRATION AND GUIDES REQUIRED, and access is a THREE-TO-FOUR-HOUR FOUR-WHEEL-DRIVE JOURNEY each way on a rough mountain track, followed by a short walk. NUMBERS ARE MANAGED. THE TRACK IS IMPASSABLE AFTER HEAVY RAIN and trips are cancelled. It is a very long day. Carry everything; there is nothing up there.

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