Kayan Mentarang
The Largest Protected Block Of Rainforest In Borneo, In The Heart Of Borneo On The Malaysian Border And One Of The Very Few Indonesian Parks Designated With Its Dayak Communities Living Inside It · Malinau, North Kalimantan
Kayan Mentarang is the LARGEST PROTECTED BLOCK OF RAINFOREST IN BORNEO - well over a million hectares along the Malaysian border in the Heart of Borneo - and it is unusual for a reason that has nothing to do with its size. WHEN IT WAS DESIGNATED, THE DAYAK COMMUNITIES LIVING INSIDE IT WERE NOT REMOVED. It was gazetted as a national park with its people in place and is co-managed with them, which is rare in Indonesia and was fought for. THE KENYAH AND LUNDAYEH LIVE IN LONGHOUSES ALONG THE BAHAU AND KAYAN RIVERS, and among older women you still see the ELONGATED EARLOBES stretched with heavy brass rings, and the traditional tattooing. GETTING THERE IS DAYS: a flight to Malinau or Tarakan, then small aircraft to a grass strip, or longboats poled up rivers against the current. There is essentially no tourism here at all - no operators, no booking system and nothing that runs to a schedule, which is either the attraction or the reason not to come.
Kayan Mentarang, Malinau and Nunukan Regencies, North Kalimantan, Malinau, North Kalimantan, Indonesia
THERE IS NO GATE AND NO VISITOR CENTRE IN ANY ORDINARY SENSE. ACCESS IS VIA MALINAU OR TARAKAN, both of which have flights from Balikpapan and Tarakan from Jakarta. FROM THERE IT IS EITHER SMALL AIRCRAFT TO GRASS STRIPS at Long Alango, Long Bawan or similar - limited, weather-dependent and frequently cancelled - or DAYS BY LONGBOAT up the Bahau or Kayan rivers against the current. EVERYTHING IS ARRANGED THROUGH VILLAGE CONTACTS AND LOCAL GUIDES rather than through operators; there is no booking system and almost no tourism infrastructure. PARK PERMITS ARE HANDLED AT MALINAU. VISITORS STAY IN LONGHOUSES OR VILLAGE HOMES AS GUESTS, which requires arrangement and a contribution. Malaria is present. Bring everything, including cash.