Mahabalipuram

UNESCO World Heritage Site: Group Of Monuments At Mahabalipuram (1984); Monument Of National Importance Under The Archaeological Survey Of India · Mamallapuram, Tamil Nadu

A small town on the Bay of Bengal an hour south of Chennai, and the site of the Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram, a World Heritage Site: some of the oldest surviving stone temples in south India, carved and built by the Pallava kings in the seventh and eighth centuries when this was their port. The Shore Temple stands on the edge of the sea, its towers weathered by centuries of salt wind. The Pancha Rathas are five temples each carved out of a single rock, as models of different styles. Arjuna's Penance, also called the Descent of the Ganges, is one of the largest open-air rock reliefs in the world, crowded with gods, animals and people. Nearby sits Krishna's Butter Ball, a huge boulder balanced on a slope. The town is still full of stone carvers, whose workshops line the streets, and has a relaxed beach and backpacker scene. The 2004 tsunami briefly exposed older structures offshore. It is easy as a day trip from Chennai or on the way to Pondicherry. The dance festival is held against Arjuna's Penance around December and January.

Shore Temple Road, Mamallapuram, Tamil Nadu, 603104, India

NO OPENING TIME HERE WAS CHECKED; confirm before planning. The usual pattern: the ticketed Shore Temple and Pancha Rathas open from about sunrise to sunset every day, roughly 6 am to 6 pm, with ticket sales ending a little before closing. Arjuna's Penance and Krishna's Butter Ball are in public space and open at all times. The lighthouse keeps daytime hours with a midday break at times. The dance festival is held on evenings around December and January. The traps: missing sunrise at the Shore Temple because you drove from Chennai, visiting on a weekend or on Pongal, and swimming in rough seas.

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