Nagarparkar and the Karoonjhar Hills

Granite Hills And Medieval Jain Temple Ruins At The Southeastern Tip Of The Thar Desert, On The Edge Of The Rann Of Kutch · Nagarparkar, Sindh

Nagarparkar is a small town at the far southeastern corner of Pakistan, where the Thar Desert meets the salt flats of the Rann of Kutch and the pink granite Karoonjhar Hills rise suddenly from the sand. It is one of the most unusual landscapes in the country and one of the most culturally mixed: Tharparkar has a large Hindu population, and the area is dotted with the ruins of medieval Jain temples, of which the Gori temple, carved and painted, is the finest, alongside Hindu shrines and old mosques. Peacocks walk through the villages. For most of the year the Thar is dry and hard, and the district suffers drought and malnutrition, but in the monsoon, from July to September, rain turns the desert green almost overnight and Pakistanis drive from Karachi to see it. A large coal mining project at Islamkot, on the way, has changed the region and is controversial. Nagarparkar is a long drive from Karachi and close to the Indian border, with security checkposts, basic lodging and very few foreign visitors.

Nagarparkar, Tharparkar District, at the edge of the Rann of Kutch, Nagarparkar, Sindh, Pakistan

Open at all times. Temples and ruins have no formal hours, though active temples are best visited in daylight and caretakers may not always be present. Nagarparkar is about seven to eight hours from Karachi by road via Mithi, where most visitors break the journey. It is a border area with security checkposts; foreigners may need permission, so confirm current rules before travelling. Monsoon rain can make roads difficult from July to September.

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