San Blas and La Tovara

A Historic Spanish Naval Port That Is Now A Sleepy Fishing Town, Known For Mangrove River Cruises Up The Rio San Cristobal To La Tovara Spring, Birdwatching, Crocodile And Turtle Sights And Matanchen Bay Surf. Famous For Biting No See Ums At Dusk. Bird Festival In February · San Blas, Nayarit

San Blas is a sleepy fishing town on the Pacific coast of Nayarit that was once an important Spanish naval port, founded in the 18th century to supply ships heading to the Californias and the Philippines. Today the old stone fort and the ruins of a church on the hill above town give a sense of that past, but most visitors come for the water. The main draw is the boat trip up the Rio San Cristobal to La Tovara, a freshwater spring set in mangrove, which takes two to three hours and brings herons, kingfishers, turtles and crocodiles close to the boat. Matanchen Bay nearby has a long beach and a gentle surf break. It suits birders, families and travellers who like slow, quiet coastal towns. It is worth the detour for the mangrove trip, especially in the dry season and at the February bird festival; it is not worth it at dusk without repellent, because no-see-ums (jejenes) bite hard, or for anyone wanting nightlife and polished resorts. Tepic is about 70 km away.

San Blas on the Pacific coast of Nayarit, with the La Tovara spring and mangrove river trip a few km inland; coordinates approximate, San Blas, Nayarit, Mexico

The town is open all year and the beach is FREE at any hour. Boat trips to La Tovara run through the day, usually from early morning to mid-afternoon, and the first departures are the best for birds and cooler air. The spring and its swimming area may be CLOSED or limited after heavy rain, when the river is high or murky, and some boats do not run in storms. The crocodile farm and small restaurants at the spring have their own hours and may be CLOSED on quiet days. The old fort and church ruins on the hill are normally open for walking, but opening can vary, so ask in town.

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