Shuzenji Onsen
Shuzenji Onsen, The Old Spa Town On The Izu Peninsula Built Around A River, A Red Footbridge And The Shuzenji Temple, With An Outdoor Bath (Tokko No Yu) In The River Bed And A Bamboo Path. An Easy Weekend From Tokyo. · Izu, Shizuoka
Shuzenji Onsen is a small hot spring town in the middle of the Izu Peninsula, built along the Katsura River below wooded hills. It is often described as the oldest spa town on the peninsula, with a tradition that the monk Kobo Daishi opened the first spring in 807 by striking a rock in the river - a story told locally, so treat the date as legend. The centre is a few streets around the Shuzen-ji temple, a red footbridge, a bamboo grove path and the river bank, where a small stone bath called Tokko-no-yu sits beside the water. Shuzenji also carries a famous tragedy: the young shogun Minamoto no Yoriie is said to have been killed here in 1204. The water is soft and gentle, which suits a long soak. It is a comfortable weekend from Tokyo, about two hours by train and bus. It is worth the detour for a night in a ryokan and a slow morning walk. It is not worth it as a rushed half day, since the sights are small and the pleasure is in the baths.
Shuzenji, Izu, Shizuoka, a bus ride from Shuzenji Station at the end of the Izuhakone Railway from Mishima, Izu, Shizuoka, Japan
The town is open all day and the streets, bamboo path and river bank have no gate. Shuzen-ji temple grounds are usually open from morning to late afternoon, with a small fee for the treasure hall - confirm. Public baths and day-use ryokan baths commonly run late morning to evening and may close one day a week; confirm each before you go. From Tokyo, take the Tokaido Shinkansen or a limited express to Mishima, then the Izuhakone Railway, about 30 minutes, to Shuzenji Station, and a local bus of roughly ten minutes to the centre. IC cards work on the railway, but keep cash for small shops and baths. Book a ryokan early for weekends, autumn colour and holidays.