Surabaya
Indonesia'S Second City And The Site Of The Battle In November 1945 That Gave The Republic Its Founding Military Myth And The Country Its Heroes Day · Surabaya, East Java
IN NOVEMBER 1945, WEEKS AFTER INDONESIA DECLARED INDEPENDENCE, British Indian troops arrived in Surabaya to disarm the surrendered Japanese and found a city that had already armed itself. A BRITISH BRIGADIER WAS KILLED, the city was bombarded from sea and air, and THOUSANDS OF INDONESIANS DIED IN THREE WEEKS OF FIGHTING - poorly armed, and they did not give the city up easily. THE REPUBLIC TOOK ITS FOUNDING MILITARY MYTH FROM THOSE WEEKS and 10 NOVEMBER IS HEROES DAY, a national holiday. BUNG TOMO'S RADIO BROADCASTS from here are still played. The TUGU PAHLAWAN marks it. Otherwise this is Indonesia's second city and is almost entirely skipped by visitors: an Arab quarter around a saint's tomb, a Chinatown, a cigarette empire in a Dutch mansion, and a Soviet submarine parked downtown. ALMOST NO FOREIGN VISITOR STOPS HERE, which says more about the guidebooks than about the city - most connect straight through to Bromo or Ijen without ever leaving the station.
Surabaya, East Java, Surabaya, East Java, Indonesia
SURABAYA IS A CITY OF NEARLY THREE MILLION with an international airport, trains from Jakarta and Yogyakarta, and a functioning bus network. THE TUGU PAHLAWAN AND ITS UNDERGROUND MUSEUM keep daytime hours and are cheap. HOUSE OF SAMPOERNA is free and has a VIEWING GALLERY OVER A WORKING HAND-ROLLING FLOOR - the women rolling are working, not performing, and photography of them is restricted. THE SUNAN AMPEL MOSQUE AND TOMB in the Arab quarter is an active pilgrimage site; modest dress is required and Friday midday is prayers. THE SUBMARINE MONUMENT charges a small fee. 10 NOVEMBER IS HEROES DAY and the city marks it seriously. IT IS THE ROAD AND RAIL HUB FOR BROMO, IJEN AND MADURA, which is how most travellers encounter it.