Suwa Taisha

Suwa Taisha, One Of The Oldest Shrines In Japan, In Four Parts Around Lake Suwa In Nagano, Known For The Onbashira Festival Every Six Years, When Huge Logs Are Slid Down A Hillside, And For Its Pillars And A Rare Lack Of A Main Hall. · Suwa, Nagano

Suwa Taisha is the head of thousands of Suwa shrines across Japan, and it is very old - its roots are said to go back thousands of years, so confirm any date you read. It is not one site but four, around Lake Suwa in Nagano: Kamisha Honmiya and Maemiya on the upper side, Harumiya and Akimiya on the lower side, in the towns of Suwa, Chino and Shimosuwa. Honmiya is known for having no honden, the inner main hall found at most shrines, and the sacred mountain or tree behind it is worshipped instead - confirm the details at each shrine. The Onbashira festival, held once every six years by the Japanese count, fells giant fir logs and drags them to the shrines. In Kiotoshi the men ride logs down a steep slope, a very dangerous rite with deaths in the past. It suits people who like old Shinto sites. Visiting all four takes a long day by bus or taxi, and many travellers see only one or two. It is worth the trip for the atmosphere, less so for grand buildings.

Suwa Taisha Kamisha Honmiya, Miyada, Suwa, Nagano, a bus or taxi from Kami-Suwa Station; four shrines stand around Lake Suwa, Suwa, Nagano, Japan

The grounds of all four shrines are open all day and entry is free, though the offices, charm counters and the Honmiya halls keep daytime hours, commonly from about 8:30 to 16:30 or 17:00, shorter in winter - confirm. The Onbashira festival falls once every six years - confirm. Take the JR Chuo Line from Shinjuku to Kami-Suwa or Shimo-Suwa, about 2.5 hours on a limited express - confirm. From Kami-Suwa, Honmiya is a bus or taxi ride; Akimiya and Harumiya are near Shimo-Suwa. Bring cash for charms and buses.

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