Takengon and the Gayo Highlands

The Highland Plateau Behind Aceh Where Gayo Arabica Is Grown One Of The Significant Coffee Origins On Earth Around A Lake, In A Region With Its Own Language And Its Own History · Takengon, Aceh

IF YOU HAVE DRUNK INDONESIAN COFFEE IN A GOOD CAFE ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD, THERE IS A FAIR CHANCE IT CAME FROM HERE. THE GAYO HIGHLANDS BEHIND ACEH PRODUCE ARABICA THAT SPECIALITY BUYERS TREAT AS ONE OF THE MAJOR ORIGINS ON EARTH - grown at altitude by smallholders, much of it organic and cooperative-certified, and shipped out under a name most drinkers have read on a bag without ever wondering where it is. IT IS A PLATEAU AROUND A LAKE. LAUT TAWAR sits in the middle of it, the town of TAKENGON on its shore, pine ridges and coffee terraces above. THE GAYO ARE NOT ACEHNESE - their own language, their own identity, and a highland history that ran differently through the long conflict and the years after the tsunami. It is cool, green, almost entirely unvisited by foreigners, and it is eight or nine hours of mountain road from Medan. Come at harvest, roughly October through March, or the washing stations will be idle; access to the smallholdings runs through a local contact rather than any booking system; and Aceh applies Islamic law, so dress conservatively and expect no alcohol.

Takengon, Central Aceh, Aceh, Takengon, Aceh, Indonesia

TAKENGON IS REACHED BY ROAD - roughly EIGHT TO NINE HOURS FROM MEDAN or five or so from BANDA ACEH, on WINDING MOUNTAIN ROUTES that are slow in any weather; there are limited small flights. COFFEE IS THE REASON TO COME AND VISITS ARE INFORMAL: smallholdings, washing stations and cooperatives around the plateau RECEIVE VISITORS THROUGH LOCAL ARRANGEMENT rather than any booking system, and A LOCAL CONTACT OR GUIDE IS HOW IT WORKS. HARVEST RUNS ROUGHLY OCTOBER THROUGH MARCH with variation by altitude, and that is when the washing stations are working. LAUT TAWAR is open water with boats hired informally at the shore. ACEH APPLIES ISLAMIC LAW: DRESS MODESTLY AND CONSERVATIVELY, ALCOHOL IS NOT AVAILABLE, and Ramadan is observed strictly. Bring cash.

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