Tournai
One Of Belgium'S Oldest Towns, With A Five Towered Romanesque Gothic Cathedral (UNESCO 2000) And The Oldest Belfry In The Country (UNESCO) · Tournai, Hainaut Province
Tournai (Doornik in Dutch) is one of the oldest towns in Belgium, a Roman river settlement on the Scheldt (Escaut) that became an early seat of the Merovingian Franks: the tomb of King Childeric, father of Clovis, was found here in 1653. Its wealth left two UNESCO landmarks a few steps apart - the Cathedral of Notre-Dame, a vast Romanesque and Gothic church crowned by five towers and listed in 2000, and the Belfry, begun in the late 12th century and often called the oldest in the country. Around them lie a broad Grand-Place, the Pont des Trous water gate over the river, a fine arts museum designed by Victor Horta and a tapestry museum recalling the town's weaving fame. The painter Rogier van der Weyden was born here. People come for the cathedral, the belfry climb and a calm French-speaking town about 30 minutes from Lille. The honest caveat: Tournai is quiet and overlooked, evenings are sleepy, and the cathedral has been under restoration for over two decades since a 1999 tornado, so confirm what is open.
The Cathedral of Notre-Dame and the Belfry, Grand-Place, Tournai, near the French border, Tournai, Hainaut Province, Belgium
The Grand-Place, the river quays and the Pont des Trous are open at all hours and free. The Cathedral of Notre-Dame is usually open daily with shorter hours in winter and limited access during services; because restoration has run in phases since 1999, parts of the nave, choir or treasury may be screened off - confirm what is open. The Belfry is climbed on a ticket, usually from the tourist office side of the square, and closes on one weekday and on some holidays. Tournai's municipal museums, including the Fine Arts Museum and TAMAT, typically close one weekday - often Tuesday rather than the usual Belgian Monday - so check the current schedule before you plan. Getting there: SNCB/NMBS trains from Brussels take about an hour, and trains from Lille-Flandres about 25-35 minutes; the station is a 10-15 minute walk north of the Grand-Place. By car the A8/E429 from Brussels and the A16/E42 from Mons both reach the ring road, with paid car parks near the centre. Nothing needs booking except group tours and festival-week hotels.