Upper Mustang and Lo Manthang

The Former Kingdom Of Lo, A Restricted Area Of Nepal; Lo Manthang Is Its Walled Capital · Lo Manthang, Gandaki

Upper Mustang is the former Kingdom of Lo, a high desert of eroded red and ochre cliffs north of the Himalaya on the Tibetan border, in the rain shadow of the Annapurnas. It was closed to foreigners until 1992 and remains a restricted area, which is why its Tibetan culture has survived so intact. The goal is Lo Manthang, the medieval walled capital, a maze of whitewashed houses around the old royal palace and monasteries whose fifteenth-century murals have been restored by international teams and are among the finest Tibetan Buddhist paintings anywhere. On the way, cliffs are honeycombed with ancient sky caves, some holding burials and painted shrines. The Tiji festival in spring is the great event of the year. The honest change is the road: a dirt road now runs from Jomsom to Lo Manthang and on to the Chinese border, so many visitors arrive by jeep and the walk is quieter than it was on the old trails. The permit is expensive, charged per ten days, and trips must be arranged through an agency.

Upper Mustang restricted area, Mustang District, Lo Manthang, Gandaki, Nepal

Seasonal. Best from spring to autumn; unlike most of Nepal, Mustang stays dry in the monsoon. A restricted-area permit is required, charged for a set number of days, with a licensed agency and guide - confirm current rules and fees. Access is from Jomsom, reached by flight or road from Pokhara.

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